Lotus Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 We've got a wooden work top in the kitchen, i oiled some 5 or 6 times after they installed it but it's stll starting to have cracks, especially around the sink. I've tried to tell evryone to not let any standing water stay on the surface but our daughter is 6 and is unlikely to do that! I've read that you can keep oiling it evry month or so but that seems a pain. What i want to know is: Can you waterproof a wooden kitchen worktop? My mum suggested Yacht varnish. I looked it up but it does appear to be flammable! Any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 What oil have you been using? This stuff is best.. Junckers Worktop Oil http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUNWTO/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relámpago blanco Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Mineral oil penetrates the wood and has been the traditional choice for cutting surfaces. To maintain a smooth surface, counters must be re-oiled frequently—which is easier when regular care is maintained. Mineral oil should be rubbed across the surface and allowed to sink in until the wood will drink no more. Once conditioned, oiled counters are often sealed with a beeswax finish to keep water out and let the wood breathe. Counters should be re-oiled and topped with beeswax monthly. The mineral oil can be added right on top of the beeswax. •Mineral oil with melted paraffin wax is also used by those who want to cut on their countertop. The oil must be reapplied about once a week because it evaporates a bit each time it is cleaned. The wax should be reapplied every few months. • Tung oil is an age-old favorite. It is tough, provides a glossy finish, is water resistant, and highly resistant to yellowing. • Linseed oil, which can dry incompletely and fail to form a hard and durable surface, often darkens and changes color with time. •Beeswax is a commonly used paste that is also sold as an oil blend. It is completely food safe, should be rubbed in, and will need to be reapplied monthly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cp40 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Should have varnished the end grain, round the sink, but continued to oil the surface, ..just an opinion btw. most damp, gets into wood via the endgrain. I do a fair bit of external joinery, and usually seal the edges, with a waterproof varnish, i doubt the edges of a worktop would catch fire like, its probably only flamable, in its wet, state. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Thanks for this, guys. There's a lot of things i SHOULD have done but now i really am gonna have to get on it before it's totally ruined. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cp40 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Thanks for this, guys. There's a lot of things i SHOULD have done but now i really am gonna have to get on it before it's totally ruined. Thanks for this, guys. There's a lot of things i SHOULD have done but now i really am gonna have to get on it before it's totally ruined. dry it out, and seal the edges then, should've= could do. If the cracks, are deep enough, dry them out, fill them with an exterior grade filler aswell. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Thanks for this, guys. There's a lot of things i SHOULD have done but now i really am gonna have to get on it before it's totally ruined. Thanks for this, guys. There's a lot of things i SHOULD have done but now i really am gonna have to get on it before it's totally ruined. dry it out, and seal the edges then, should've= could do. If the cracks, are deep enough, dry them out, fill them with an exterior grade filler aswell. Is there any varnish you recommend? Should i only varnish the edges and the area around the sink? Won't that then be a different colour to the rest of the worktop? Sorry for the questions! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lotus Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 What oil have you been using? This stuff is best.. Junckers Worktop Oil http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/j/JUNWTO/ I was using whatever sh1t Ikea sold to me! Is this Junckers gear waterproof? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
cp40 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Thanks for this, guys. There's a lot of things i SHOULD have done but now i really am gonna have to get on it before it's totally ruined. Thanks for this, guys. There's a lot of things i SHOULD have done but now i really am gonna have to get on it before it's totally ruined. dry it out, and seal the edges then, should've= could do. If the cracks, are deep enough, dry them out, fill them with an exterior grade filler aswell. Is there any varnish you recommend? Should i only varnish the edges and the area around the sink? Won't that then be a different colour to the rest of the worktop? Sorry for the questions! Check your Pm. Disclaimer, I will accept no resposibilty for damage as a result of any general advice i have offered, on this forum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChezGiven Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 How do you measure the curvature of a wall so that you can cut a curved piece of wood for a shelf? Is there anything you can do to creaky floorboards to stop them creaking so much? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relámpago blanco Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 How do you measure the curvature of a wall so that you can cut a curved piece of wood for a shelf? Is there anything you can do to creaky floorboards to stop them creaking so much? Work out how far the curve protrudes from the starting point of the curve then measure the distance from start of curve to the other side and you can calculate this. Measure these and I will calculate it for you. With Floorboards, strengthen the supports of your floor boards and install more struts so that the distance between them is lesser. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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