Skirge Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 BEWARE MEGA LONG POST!! Take hundreds snapshots and don’t worry one iota if the pictures turn out yucky. Don’t get overwhelmed learning the numerous settings. First concentrate on the basic ones, then learn others only as you need them. Do not be hurried, there is no rush Action shots - burst mode is your friend Your flash WILL NOT send light over a long distance IE: at a football match Forget about digital zoom, only optical zoom matters Megapixels are not that important Buy a good brand, Nikon or Canon if you can Get the biggest memory card you can get, at least 1GB ALWAYS have spare batteries, the higher the MA (milli ampage) the longer they willl last, about 2300MA or higher Shoot in RAW if you can Get a tripod A HOW TO GUIDE http://www.digicamhelp.com/learn/for-newbies/beginner-tips/ First steps for new digital camera users Read the manual Honestly. You should! It can be very tempting to set aside the manual because it appears overwhelming. But the manual contains important information about using and setting the camera. After understanding basic camera functions, read about new features only as you need them. Use the shutter-release button correctly The shutter-release button on a digital camera functions differently than one on a film camera. It must be pressed in two steps: first to lock focus and exposure, second to take the photo. If you don’t use it correctly, photos will be improperly focused and exposed. In addition, images will be blurred. Keep the camera steady Digital cameras are prone to camera shake, particularly when lighting is low. Keep your camera as steady as possible while framing shots. Use a camera support, such as a tripod or table top, when the camera-shake warning appears or shutter speeds are low. If necessary, reset the camera While trying to figure out camera settings, it’s altogether possible to inadvertently select a wrong one. Incorrect settings will result in poorly exposed or off-color photos. If this happens and you’re unable to get the settings right, reset the camera. Many digital cameras have a reset button. For others, resetting may be done by removing the batteries for a few hours. Not sure how to reset the camera; simply check the, err, manual. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.digicamhelp.com/learn/for-newbies/advice/ Your new digital camera and light After seeing their digital photos for the first time, many new digital camera users find themselves asking: “Is there something wrong with my camera?” The answer to the question is usually NO! Some of the problems they see in their photos are usually caused by two things: unfamiliarity with their camera and not understanding how to obtain proper exposure and focus. Here are some suggestions: 1. Become familiar with your digital camera Just shoot away. Take hundreds snapshots and don’t worry one iota if the pictures turn out yucky. Become familiar with camera settings, menus and modes. Keep the camera manual nearby to use as a reference when needed. The purpose of this exercise is to become comfortable with your digital camera so it eventually becomes an extension of your hands. Before you know it, you’ll be concentrating more on subject matter than fumbling with the camera when taking photos. A word of caution Don’t get overwhelmed learning the numerous settings. First concentrate on the basic ones, then learn others only as you need them. Check out our Taking Photos and Camera Settings sections for easy-to-understand help learning about and using digital camera settings. 2. Understand light and how it affects exposure The key to a great photograph is proper exposure. If an image has the best composition in the world, what does it matter if it’s poorly exposed?!! Take plenty of practice shots of subjects and scenes in bright light, low light, back light. Take inside photos with and without a flash, and even outside with a flash (fill-in flash). There are many ways to control exposure but learning how to use focus and exposure-lock is fundamental. Learn this technique before any other. It is well to ponder the words of one of the founders of Kodak, George Eastman: “Light makes photography. Embrace light. Admire it. Love it. But above all, know light. Know it for all you are worth, and you will know the key to photography.” ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.digicamhelp.com/learn/for-newbies/semi-automatic/ Aperture & shutter speed A digital camera may have manual as well as semi-automatic modes that let you control aperture and shutter speed. Together, aperture and shutter speed determine how a photo is exposed. The faster the shutter speed, the larger the opening of the lens (ie. smaller aperture number). Conversely, the slower the shutter speed, the smaller the lens opening. Aperture-priority (AV) mode When using aperture-priority, also known as Av mode, you manually select the aperture and the camera automatically sets the shutter speed. The aperture is the opening in a lens that admits light onto the camera sensor and is varied by changing the size of the opening. It’s diameter is stated as an f-stop. Aperture-priority mode is used when you want to control depth-of-field, the area a photo is sharp in front and back of where you focus on the main subject. Shutter-priority (TV) mode Shutter speed relates to how long the camera’s shutter stays open after you depress the shutter-release button. Shutter speed is measured in seconds, such as 1/125th. A slow shutter speed produces a longer exposure time. For shutter-priority mode (Tv), select the shutter speed and the aperture adjusts automatically. Use shutter-priority mode when you want to control action in a photo either to freeze the action of fast moving subjects or to create a sense of movement. --------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/advanced-settings/shutter-speed/ Shutter Speed Shutter speed is the amount of time the shutter remains open to allow light to reach a digital camera sensor. Shutter speed is measured in seconds, or fractions of seconds. Using very fast shutter speeds “freeze” fast-moving subjects, such as birds in flight. Slow shutter speeds are used to intentionally capture the movement of a subject. How an image is exposed is determined by the combination of the lens aperture and shutter speed. A fast shutter speed uses a larger aperture (small F-stop number) to avoid an under-exposed image. A slow shutter speed requires a small aperture (large F-stop number) to avoid over-exposure. Typical shutter speeds are: 1/2000 second, 1/2000 sec, 1/500 sec, 1/250 sec, 1/125 sec, 1/60 sec, 1/30 sec, 1/15 sec, 1/8 sec, 1/4 sec, 1/2 sec and 1 second. On some digital cameras you can manually set shutter speed a lot slower than a second for very long exposures. For most, hand holding a digital camera at shutter speeds below 1/60th of a second often require use of a camera support to prevent camera shake. Shutter Priority Mode Shutter Priority mode is a semi-automatic exposure mode. You select the shutter speed and the camera automatically sets the aperture for a proper exposure. For digital cameras without Shutter Priority, use Sports, Kids and Pets or Fast Shutter mode. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/camera-modes/exposure-modes/ Exposure modes Exposure is the amount of light which falls upon the sensor of a digital camera. Shutter speed and aperture are adjusted to achieve optimal exposure of a scene. Most digital cameras offer a variety of exposure modes — from fully-automatic to semi-automatic to full manual control. Scene modes have factory optimized settings for different subjects and scenes. Automatic modes In fully automatic mode, when the shutter release button is pressed halfway, the camera selects all settings depending on the type of lighting and brightness of a scene. The camera also focuses automatically. When light is low or insufficient, the flash fires automatically. Digital cameras with Program AE mode (P mode) set the shutter speed and aperture automatically. However, the user can adjust some settings such as ISO and white balance. Semi-automatic modes Aperture priority mode (AV) - Select the aperture (lens opening) and the camera automatically sets the shutter speed. Shutter priority mode (TV) - Select the shutter speed and the camera automatically sets the aperture. Manual mode You have complete control by selecting both the shutter speed and the aperture. Digital cameras with manual modes have a manual assist indicator that indicates whether or not exposure is adequate. Scene modes Scene modes let you choose from a variety of pre-programmed modes suitable to photograph a given subject such as a portrait, landscape or fireworks. The camera settings change when moving a dial to a mode that matches the scene you plan to photograph. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/shooting-modes/main-digital-camera-shooting-modes/ Main digital camera shooting modes All digital cameras have fully automatic modes to take photos by simply pointing and shooting. Intermediate and advanced cameras that have semi-automatic and manual modes allow for more creative and technical control. Automatic modes Auto/Simple - fully automatic, point-and-shoot mode, which lets beginners easily take photos. The camera selects all settings. Program AE - camera automatically sets the shutter speed and aperture based on the brightness of the scene. User can adjust some settings such as exposure compensation, white balance, ISO, focusing and metering modes. Semi-automatic modes Shutter priority (Tv) - User selects shutter speed and the camera automatically selects the aperture. Selecting a faster shutter speed allows you to “freeze” the action of a moving subject. Slower shutter speeds capture movement and also let you shoot without a flash in dim lit scenes. Aperture priority (Av) - User selects aperture and the camera automatically selects shutter speed. Opening up the aperture (smaller f-stop number) decreases depth of field. Closing down the aperture (higher f-stop number) increases depth of field. Manual mode User manually selects the shutter speed and aperture. An Exposure Display visible on the LCD or electronic viewfinder shows the amount a photo will be over- or underexposed. Long exposures are taken in manual mode. Scene modes Digital cameras have a variety of scene modes, pre-programmed to provide optimal exposure for a specific scene. Scene modes can be very effective and, like other automatic modes, are useful for those who prefer not to tweak camera settings. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.digicamhelp.com/camera-features/shooting-modes/scene-modes/ Common digital camera scene modes Digital cameras offer a variety of useful modes that are optimized for specific scenes and photographic conditions. Scene modes are preprogrammed by the manufacturer to automatically give the best exposure and settings for each scene. When selected, a scene mode can often give better results than shooting in fully automatic mode. Common scene modes Backlight - eliminates dark shadows when light is coming from behind a subject, or when the subject is in the shade. The built-in flash automatically fires to “fill in” the shadows. Beach/Snow - photograph beach, snow and sunlit water scenes. Exposure and white balance are set to help prevent the scene from becoming washed out looking. Fireworks - shutter speed and exposure are set for shooting fireworks; pre-focusing & use of tripod recommended. Landscape - take photos of wide scenes. Camera automatically focuses on a distant object. Macro - take close-up shots of small objects, flowers and insects. Lens can be moved closer to the subject than in other modes. Hold the camera steady or use a tripod. Night Portrait - take photos of a subject against a night scene. The built-in flash and red-eye reduction are enabled; shutter-speeds are low. Use of tripod recommended. Night Scene - photograph nightscapes. Preprogrammed to use slow shutter speeds. Use of tripod recommended. Party - take photos in a dim lit room; exposure and shutter speed are automatically adjusted for room brightness. Captures indoor background lighting or candlelight. Hold the camera very steady when using this mode. Portrait - main subject is clearly focused and the background is out of focus (has less depth of field). Best when taking shots outside during the day. Shoot using a mid to long telephoto lens, stand close to your subject within the recommended camera range. When possible, select an uncomplicated background that is far from the subject. Sports (also called Kids & Pets)- take photos of a fast moving subject; fast shutter speeds “freeze” the action. Best when taking photos bright light; pre-focusing recommended. Sunset - take photos of sunsets and sunrises; helps keep the deep hues in the scene. Aquarium - selects ISO, white balance and color balance to photograph fish and other items in an indoor aquarium. Foliage - photographs autumn, garden and similar scenes in vivid colors. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.digicamhelp.com/how-to/sport-action/action2/ Techniques for taking action shots Freeze action by “panning,” a camera in the same direction as the moving subject. Panning produces images with part of the scene in sharp focus and other parts blurred. When panning, anticipate the action by starting to pan the camera prior to the subject actually entering into view. As you track the subject, follow the action by steadily turning your body. After you snap the shutter-release button, continue to move the camera in the same direction for a few moments. This follow-through movement will help keep the main subject from becoming blurred. Check if your digital cameras has a panning mode. Vary zoom focal lengths You will probably use the telephoto lens fully zoomed in for close-ups, but try other zoom ranges too for varied shots. Vary picture taking angle If you can, move around. Take photos at eye level, but also from above or below the subject for added interest and dynamics. Keep it steady Try to keep your camera as steady as possible to prevent camera shake. If it has Image Stabilization, use it. If you are in a stationary place, use a tripod, monopod or other camera support. Prefocus on an area where you anticipate the subject will be, watch for the subject out of the corner of an eye, and then shoot at the appropriate moment. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.digicamhelp.com/how-to/special-subjects/fireworks/ Photographing fireworks Taking photos of fireworks can be tricky so plan in advance. Arrive before the show begins to find an unobstructed view of where the fireworks display will appear. Make sure you’re in a place where people will not constantly walk in front of you. However for some shots, it’s perfectly acceptable to have people as part of the scene. Extraneous lighting can interfere with getting a properly exposed photo of fireworks. Stay as far away as possible from illuminated signs, street lamps and parking lots with artificial lighting. Position your digital camera where the fireworks will explode. Take a few practice shots early in the show. Check focus and exposure on the LCD. Adjust settings as necessary. Once the show begins, take lots of shots! Shoot holding the camera vertically as well as horizontally. What to bring: * A tripod or monopod to steady your camera and prevent camera shake. * A small to mid-sized flashlight to use when you must adjust camera settings in the dark. * Extra batteries and memory cards. Getting your camera ready: * Set your camera’s focal length to the equivalent of 50mm or wider. Using a wide focal length is generally more effective than zooming in when photographing fireworks. * Set the camera to it’s highest quality settings. * Use a tripod or other steady support * To avoid blur, use the self-timer or a camera remote to trigger the shutter. * Turn off the flash (if you can’t turn it off, tape a piece of cardboard over it). Other camera settings: If your digital camera’s settings can not be changed, the automatic settings may keep the shutter open long enough for a proper exposure. You can also set your camera to landscape or fireworks mode. If your camera has manual settings: * Set focus to infinity. * Use an aperture of F5.6 or smaller (higher number). * Set the shutter to bulb. * Exposure: try between 1/2 and 4 seconds; although one to two seconds can also work well. * If possible, use an ISO of 100. ISO Setting Recommended aperture 50 f/5.6 to 11 100 f/8 to 16 200 f/11 to 22 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.digicamhelp.com/how-to/places-events/wedding/ Wedding photography I believe photographing a wedding, for the most part, should be left to the professional photographer or at the least an advanced amateur that has worked with professionals. After all, this is a once in a lifetime event that cannot be restaged. It must be photographed by the pro within a limited time frame and he or she is expected to deliver top quality images. Many pros frown upon anyone shooting the setups or poses that they have constructed, some to the point of having it in their contract with the bride that it will not be done. That said, there is still a place for the amateur photographer and all that you have to do is be alert and ready for the opportunities. These will arise when the pro is occupied in other areas. When the pro is with the bride, you search out the groom and his attendants and take pictures of them and vice versa. Try to find areas to place subjects that do not have obtrusive backgrounds. Watch for mirrors and glass windows that can reflect your cameras flash, as these will certainly spoil your picture. Be aware of anything that will detract from your subject. Most consumer and prosumer grade digital cameras have a small built in flash, one that is not very powerful and not suited for flash photography when the subject is more than a few feet away. You should know the limitations of your flash and stay within its range. The additive method If the photos are indoors try to arrange your subjects closer together but avoid a bunched up appearance. Take your pictures quickly and use the additive method, i.e. start with a bust type portrait of the bride alone, then for your next shot bring in the maid of honor to sit or stand beside her, then add the other attendants. Working the same way with the groom and groomsmen, you’ll find things go smoother and quicker this way. If time permits take pictures using the additive method in the front of the sanctuary. Sit the bride on the steps and group her attendants around her and close, have them lean slightly in toward her and do anything you have to in order to get a big smile! Other pictures to get would be the bride and groom with the flower girl and ring bearer. Have the bride kneel to their level and you move in close to frame your shot. Also, members of the immediate family of both the bride and groom are important and not to be overlooked. Vary the look of wedding photos Try hard to vary the “look” of your wedding photos. Avoid lining everyone up in straight lines and shooting from the same position. Use the pews of the church to sit some people while others stand directly behind them. Have your subjects turn slightly in towards the middle person instead of everyone facing straight toward the camera. If it is a daytime wedding take your subjects outside and use the “fill flash” feature on your digital camera. Avoid having the sun directly in the eyes of people, squints don’t photograph well. Again, watch what is behind your subject. Many an otherwise good picture is ruined by having things “grow” out of a brides head such as utility poles and wires. Try to find a quiet spot with a bench if possible. Don’t forget the bouquets of the bride and attendants, they always make a colorful accent and are expected to be seen in most photos. If the reception is held in the same building as where the wedding took place, steal away and take a few shots of the cake and decorations before the guests arrive. Photographing the wedding reception White wedding cakes are very hard to photograph with a built in flash unit or for that matter any direct flash. Most pros either bounce their flash off the ceiling or detach it from the camera and hold it off to one side. If there is sufficient light and you have a tripod this would be an ideal time to use it. During the reception is a great time for you to take candid photos so keep your camera handy and your eyes open for possibilities. One of the last things done at most weddings is the throwing of the bouquet by the bride. This is almost always done by throwing it over the shoulder so get in position and as soon as the brides hand comes up take the picture. Most digital cameras in the prosumer group have a certain amount of shutter lag, the time between when the button is pressed and the shutter fires, so plan for that. Weddings are joyous occasions so try to capture that in your pictures. The bride and groom will thank you for it! --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.digicamhelp.com/how-to/nature/photograph-the-moon/ Photograph the moon For ages, the moon has fascinated scientists and poets, artists and dreamers. You can safely add photographers to the long list of moon gazers. Earth’s nearest space neighbor makes for extremely interesting photographs that can be accomplished with relative ease with even a modest point and shoot camera. For best results, you need manual control of your camera’s focus and exposure. You’ll also need a way to brace your camera for the long focal length and exposure time required. How to photograph the moon Capturing spectacular shots of the lunar disk with a point and shoot or consumer dSLR is very doable, but you’ll need some “manual” dexterity and some additional gear to help make it happen. The moon at night To get a great shot of the moon when the sky is black, set your camera’s ISO to its lowest setting, usually 64 or 100 and set your camera’s resolution (picture size) to its highest setting. Not all cameras can handle focusing automatically at night, so it’s best to manually focus the camera to infinity, if possible. Your camera’s manual will tell you if you have this option and if so, how to set it. For maximum sharpness at full zoom, use the camera’s highest f-value. These range anywhere from f13 to f16 all the way up to f32 or more. At f13, your exposure will be around 1/30 of a second. At f32, you will need a half second exposure. Long exposure times require the use of a tripod to avoid motion blurring. Buy the sturdiest tripod you can afford, but know that even inexpensive tripods can provide satisfactory results. To minimize camera shake, use a cable release, wireless remote release or your camera’s self timer to trip the shutter. The moon at twilight Capturing the moon is somewhat easier during the “blue hour” when the sky turns a deep indigo after sunset. You can use your camera’s automatic metering system, but you’ll need to set your exposure value to -1 or -2 depending on how long after sunset you are shooting. Again, a higher f-setting will guarantee sharper photos but require longer exposure times, making the use of a tripod a must. Try to work a foreground element into your composition to give a sense of scale to your photo. Shooting by moonlight only For the intrepid photographer, try the challenge of shooting a landscape lit entirely by the light of the full moon. You’ll need a camera with a Bulb (or “B”) setting to achieve the long exposures needed (anywhere from two and a half to five minutes or more). Use a low ISO setting to minimize digital noise in your image. If your camera has an anti-noise feature, use it! Use a moderate f-setting (5.6 or 8 works well). Be prepared to go with manual focus and make sure your batteries are fully charged and/or you have fully charged extras along – long exposures are battery-eaters. photograph this fascinating subject at night, at twilight and with moonlight only. He discusses the best times to take photographs and suggests camera settings and equipment needed. James also offers these other helpful tips about moon photography. * I track the times for sunset and moonrise as the full moon approaches. The best time to shoot the moon and still catch enough light to capture details on the ground is when the moon rises within a half hour before sunset. Most weather Web sites feature a section that lists times for sunset and moonrise. * Add drama to your moon photos by including earthbound objects as silhouettes. * If it’s light enough to catch the moon and the landscape in front of you, try shooting from a low angle to add drama and majesty to your moonrise picture. * Try to shoot the moon within 15 to 20 minutes of moonrise. After that time, the moon will be too bright to capture without making everything else in the picture too dark. * Catch the moonrise a day or two before you plan to go out shooting and take note of the direction from which the moon will appear. I’ve had more than one moon shoot go sour because the moon came up in a different spot than I had anticipated, rendering my carefully staked out position worthless and necessitating a scramble to a new spot. * Use a photo editing program to crop your photo to make the moon appear larger. * While a full moon gets all the attention, don’t ignore a crescent moon. When the moon is less than full, sunlight hits the surface at an angle, creating shadows that make craters and other surface features stand out more than when the light hits the surface straight on, as it does when full. Suggested accessories Besides a tripod, you may wish to take along these other accessories when photographing the moon: * Cable release or remote camera control to trigger the shutter without touching the camera * Extra batteries and memory card * A notepad and pencil or pen to keep notes * A penlight or small flashlight to use when setting up equipment or jotting down notes * A shirt, jacket or vest with plenty of pockets to hold some of this stuff ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.digicamhelp.com/topics/taking-photos/common-mistakes/ Seven photo killing flaws 1. Camera shake There’s some amount of camera shake in every hand-held shot. Using a fast shutter, you can minimize it, but it’s always present to some degree. Pay attention to your shutter speed. If it’s faster than 1/60th of a second, your picture might come out reasonably sharp, but only if you’re at the wide angle end of your camera’s zoom range. If you’re at the telephoto end, you’ll need something faster than 1/250th of a second. But no matter what the shutter speed, if you want optimal results, use a tripod! 2. Misplaced focus Most of those soft, dreamy pictures don’t look artistic, just out of focus. It’s caused by the camera’s auto-focus system locking onto the wrong element in the picture. That’s a killer issue for macros and close-ups, where clarity is the first thing a critic will look for, and sharp focus on the eyes is essential for portraits. Read the manual on the various modes of auto-focus your camera offers, and use the one that will place primary focus where it will do the most good. 3. Empty skies A blank sky does nothing to enhance a composition. It can be a sign of improper metering, poorly chosen perspective, or impatience. Want great results? Get up early or wait until the late afternoon to take that picture of a red barn standing in a field of waving wheat. Editors note: a sky can be added to some photos when editing. 4. Titled Horizons A tilt of as little as half a degree in the horizon can throw a fine landscape out of kilter. That’s why pro landscape photographers buy expensive tripods that have built-in levels. Digital photo editing programs make it much easier, since there are leveling tools built into them. Make checking for a level horizon a top priority. If you don’t, it will be one of the first things you’ll hear about. 5. Bad Backgrounds Trees and other “stuff” growing out of people’s heads, bright objects drawing attention away from the subject, blown highlights… the list is never ending. The fact is, the background will account for 50% of the grade your picture gets. It’s so important that I compose for the background first, and then figure out how to insert the subjects into it. Direct Flash in People Pictures Skin, eyes, lips, and teeth are all reflective surfaces. Fire a flash directly at them, and you’ll have a maze of distracting harsh highlights and shadows. A camera’s internal flash is like a half-sized spare tire useful only in emergencies. For quality results, use natural light or buy an external flash than works in bounce mode. 7. Over-Sharpening The Unsharp Mask is both wonderful and the most destructive filter in your toolkit. It’s often misused in attempts to correct camera shake or misplaced focus. In that mode it’s great for creating ugly halos at the edges of objects, and crunchy skies. Better not to use it at all than to over-apply it. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 From the other thread: That's one lengthy guide, but there is some sage advice in there The two most important pieces of advice appear right at the start: Take hundreds snapshots and don’t worry one iota if the pictures turn out yucky. Don’t get overwhelmed learning the numerous settings. First concentrate on the basic ones, then learn others only as you need them. just added them at the top Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decky Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Mega pixels dont necessaries matter right? Just looking at Skirge's camera, seen it had 3mps, which is the same as my phone, and the quality is abit shit on my phone..... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Mega pixels dont necessaries matter right? Just looking at Skirge's camera, seen it had 3mps, which is the same as my phone, and the quality is abit s*** on my phone..... aye, I am getting a new one purely to have a better optical zoom 10z now going upto 24x and from Fuji to Nikon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decky Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Is it the zoom that defines the quality? Some of the photos youve took are miles away from the shite my phone has produced. Sorry for talking shite btw, im king n00b with cameras at the minute. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 13, 2009 Share Posted June 13, 2009 Is it the zoom that defines the quality? Some of the photos youve took are miles away from the s**** my phone has produced. Sorry for talking s**** btw, im king n00b with cameras at the minute. No lens quality really, optical zoom just means I can shoot things far away, if I used digital zoom I would loose quality Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Right then come on your experts and explain DOF for us, no not director of football but depth of field. You know these photo's where your subject is in focus and the background is blured, I think it is best to shoot in A mode thats aperture priority and setting the shutter speed to get the amount of light right. Distance from the camera and all that so come on best way to get it right? I am limited with my f range 2.8 through to 9 is the best I have with 2 ISO choices 200 and 400 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 * In its simplest terms: the wider your aperture (smaller the f-stop), the less DOF you have. * The longer your lens, the smaller the DOF. * The closer you are to the subject (focal point), the smaller the DOF. That's really all there is to it. If you set aperture priority, your camera should take care of exposure (and anyway, if you shoot in raw you can fix it later anyway, if it's not perfect). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I just can't get it to graft, in A mode if I get a blured background my subject is over exposed. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Don't aim, just shoot Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I just can't get it to graft, in A mode if I get a blured background my subject is over exposed. Hmmm... Might want to check how your camera is metering (how it measures light in your scene). If your background is dark it might be over-exposing. See if you can change the metering to only record light from your subject (spot-metering or centre). Are you using flash? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I just can't get it to graft, in A mode if I get a blured background my subject is over exposed. Hmmm... Might want to check how your camera is metering (how it measures light in your scene). If your background is dark it might be over-exposing. See if you can change the metering to only record light from your subject (spot-metering or centre). Are you using flash? No not useing flash, I can change the EV to darken the background and keep my subject bright but still its all in focus. Right am gonna tripod mount, shoot 1 shot in every f stop, ISO 400, EV 0 in A mode. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I just can't get it to graft, in A mode if I get a blured background my subject is over exposed. Hmmm... Might want to check how your camera is metering (how it measures light in your scene). If your background is dark it might be over-exposing. See if you can change the metering to only record light from your subject (spot-metering or centre). Are you using flash? No not useing flash, I can change the EV to darken the background and keep my subject bright but still its all in focus. Can you post your shots? Try this: * If you have a zoom, put at its longest (i.e. if you have a 50mm-120mm, put it 120mm) * Open the aperture as wide as you can get it (so, f2.8 if you can get it) * Get as close to the subject as you can while still in focus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 You need to strike a balance between lens length and f-stop, because the longer your lens the less you'll be able to open up. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 I just can't get it to graft, in A mode if I get a blured background my subject is over exposed. Hmmm... Might want to check how your camera is metering (how it measures light in your scene). If your background is dark it might be over-exposing. See if you can change the metering to only record light from your subject (spot-metering or centre). Are you using flash? No not useing flash, I can change the EV to darken the background and keep my subject bright but still its all in focus. Can you post your shots? Try this: * If you have a zoom, put at its longest (i.e. if you have a 50mm-120mm, put it 120mm) * Open the aperture as wide as you can get it (so, f2.8 if you can get it) * Get as close to the subject as you can while still in focus Sorry I have been deleting the shots. What I am trying now is the AF I shoot in S-AF cannot manual focus for for eyesight and C-af is pointless for a static subject. But I am now using the mode where I choose the selected area of the shot to be in focus. Getting better. I will now try what you suggested, as I am getting close will I sue macro? my lens well 10x optical works out at 38-380mm Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Best i got.. trouble is am fkd if I can remember what settings it was http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/6333/dscf6153.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Best i got.. trouble is am fkd if I can remember what settings it was http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/6333/dscf6153.jpg Your settings should be saved in the file. Try looking at its properties in Photoshop or Adobe Bridge or whatever. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Using feckin ACDSEE and it dont show the settins in image properties, could not get PS to install. Aha can get them in lightroom 1/1000 f/4.5 ISO 400 25.1MM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Using feckin ACDSEE and it dont show the settins in image properties, could not get PS to install. Aha can get them in lightroom 1/1000 f/4.5 ISO 400 25.1MM Hmm... 25mm doesn't seem like much. This is about the best I can do with the lense I have the moment: http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1976/dofex.jpg 1/100 | f/5.0 | 72mm There is a DOF calculator here (http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html) which allows you to work out the DOF for various lenses/f-stop/focal lengths. If you fancy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Cheers mate, with not using a DSLR I think it where my problem lies, just setup another shot took an image for each f stop again and every shot all of it was in focus Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 Cheers mate, with not using a DSLR I think it where my problem lies, just setup another shot took an image for each f stop again and every shot all of it was in focus Hmmm... well if you have macro mode, maybe that is worth a crack, I guess. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 its got my head done in, set in A mode try every f stop and all look the fkn same, its setting the shutter speed itsself no probs, the shutter speed will turn red if its going to be over or under exposed. Even if I ignore that though its still fkn up on me. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr may be am not getting the right mm or distance from subject. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 its got my head done in, set in A mode try every f stop and all look the fkn same, its setting the shutter speed itsself no probs, the shutter speed will turn red if its going to be over or under exposed. Even if I ignore that though its still fkn up on me. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr may be am not getting the right mm or distance from subject. I'd try this. If you have a 380mm zoom like you say, then you should be looking to use it at around 300mm or so to get shortest DOF. At a guess. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skirge Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 its got my head done in, set in A mode try every f stop and all look the fkn same, its setting the shutter speed itsself no probs, the shutter speed will turn red if its going to be over or under exposed. Even if I ignore that though its still fkn up on me. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrr may be am not getting the right mm or distance from subject. I'd try this. If you have a 380mm zoom like you say, then you should be looking to use it at around 300mm or so to get shortest DOF. At a guess. Trouble is mate it does not tell me what mm I am using, nowhere in the display ir anything. # 1/2.7" 3-Million pixel Super CCD HR # 10x zoom (37-370mm equiv) plus 2.2x digital zoom # Single or Continuous AF and Manual focus SO speeds: Auto (160-400/200-400), 200, 400, 800 (1M only) 2 - 1/2000 sec Shutter Speeds Metering: Multi, Center-weighted, Spot The focusing range in wide angle is from 3.0 ft. to infinity, in telephoto from 6.6 ft. to infinity. The Macro mode covers from 0.3 to 6.6 ft (W) and 3.0 to 6.6 ft (T). The aperture range is f/2.8-8.0 in wide angle and f/3.2-9.0 in telephoto. 1/180sec f/3.2 iso400 57mm http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/9932/dscf6242.jpg These last 3 I just moved closer each shot. 1/110sec f/3.2 iso400 57mm http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2185/dscf6256.jpg 1/125sec f/3.2 iso400 57mm http://img195.imageshack.us/img195/6573/dscf6257.jpg 1/150sec f/3.2 iso400 57mm http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/4445/dscf6258.jpg Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keefaz Posted June 14, 2009 Share Posted June 14, 2009 That's better, though, mate. I think you could just tidy that up in PS or whatever and it'd be decent. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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